Global Overground: Fishcurryrice

We arrived in Goa exactly one week after leaving Udaipur, where we had spent Christmas, after spending around 43 hours and almost 2000km on the road, stopping many times to ‘sightsee’ along the way. No wonder we were knackered. We decided that this was not the country to be in if you are running on a tight schedule! Our train journey from Bombay was pleasant enough and we arrived at the local station where the taxi from our pre-booked resort was waiting (we prebooked because we were under the impression that it was still going to be rammed in Goa from the Christmas and New Year period and we didn’t want to take any risks on the accomodation front.) Bob Marley was playing on the radio which made us smile as it signalled that we were back to the sea, sand and the chilled life.

There are many beaches to pick from in Goa and they seem to vary quite a lot. We decided to start near the ‘hippy’ beach of Arambol (North Goa), as we had got the impression that the northern beaches were cleaner, bigger and less developed than those in the south. Oh, and the sea was considered to be the cleanest around. There are many places (not in Goa we dont think) where it is unsafe to swim in the waters around India. Lets face it, it wasn't that long ago that UK beaches were pretty minging on that front too!!

Once checked in we went for a walk along the beach and found that it lived up to our expectations on the whole (it is more developed than we thought but it seems that Goa (and India in general) is developing FAST).

It was so lovely to be on the on the beach again. Especially one that is as big, quiet and open as this one. As you no doubt have gathered, most places that we have been to in India have been busy (Hectic in the main) and it was good to feel the space again. After an early night we went exploring near the busier part of the beach in the village of Arambol...

Note the obligatory cow

Swimming in the sea Indian style

In the village

We found a cheaper hut to stay in, which was right on the beach with more character than what we were in already. We obviously moved there the next morning and got settled into out little flimsy hut and enjoyed our view.

I was a little nervous and also very excited that day because friends from home, Lisa and Hannah, were arriving that night for the first week of their two week winter escape to Goa. After arriving later than expected, we had a great evening eating fresh prawns and fish curry rice (a local goan dish consisting of a spicy coconut fish curry and plain rice) and catching up. It was lovely to see them and as you can imagine, we had plenty to talk about.

We spent the next week going for walks, shopping, eating, drinking, sunbathing, and taking in the sights along the way....

The sarong-wallas bag. The sellers walk up and down the beach all day long trying to make a living in the blazing heat.

Pretty portugese style coloured houses near the beach

Bead-wallas

And of course, the game of cricket

The girls were here for my birthday too which was a treat. Matt woke me up with a couple of garlands of flowers and little birthday pressies...

..and we joined the girls for breakfast where I was surprised with even more birthday treats.

We had a massage later in the afternoon at a Keralan Ayurvedic massage place which I enjoyed but I don’t think Lisa and Hannah would do it again! Unfortunately they had male Indian masseurs and as the massage was quite different to any other massage they had experienced, I don’t think they could differentiate whether some of the moves were sexual or part of the massage. I assured them that the nipple tweaking was normal but there is no way I would let an Indian man do it on me!

Looking all greased up

And all dressed up for a special dinner of lobster and wine on the beach

After a week it was sad to say goodbye to me girlies. They were off to another beach in the south but we had decided to stay put because we didn’t have the energy to move and wanted to get to know Arambol a bit better. I ended up doing a Reiki course after they left which was interesting to say the least.

Not long after Lisa and Hannah left, we had a visit from my mum, brother and sister. This was a last minute holiday for them and it was SO lovely to see them!
They came bearing presents and treats for us both including plentiful supplies of some good quality spirits. We cant say how good it was to have a proper gin and tonic again. We spent the next few days eating and drinking well and it was good to have the family around us. It was good to be looked after too!

Outside the Ankur and Laura’s bungalow for our usual sunset drinks

Mum enjoying the walks on the beach

Matt, Ankur and Laura hired mopeds and went out exploring for the day to the other beaches a little further south (Baga) and their feedback made us glad we were in Arambol.

Looking shady

Sadly dad wasn’t able to make it out but did want some nice family pics so Matt took some great shots for him.

Yes, I am really related to them.

Trying to kill each other in the sea

Again, it was sad to say goodbye but we were glad they had come to visit. The rest of our time there was spent seeing music events, such as Prem Joshua a well known artist here and talent shows such as a man who could balance three crystal balls on his head and a very good Elvis impersonator. It was all good fun.

We visited the ‘night market’ which was basically an expensive place to buy Indian jewellery, clothes, music etc all aimed to the tourists. It was supposed to have decent music playing that didn't materialise.

Matt under a sea of hammocks

Matt had his tattoo touched up with colour and this, I am told, is the last time. I must say though, it is looking much smarter than it did before and hopefully it is here to stay..
Before

After

We hired a bike for the day and went exploring further north to Querim Beach and south to Vagator and Chapora.

An Indian scarecrow

Having a quiet beer in a peaceful untouristy spot that we found somewhere

Nadine and Jon having a random boogie behind the bar(Jon ran the restaurant at Ocean Mist this year with Deepak from Nepal.)

In the north of Arambol there is a brackish water lake right behind the beach which is a little attraction all of its own. In the monsoon its part of a river that runs out to sea. During the dryer months the river dries and leaves a series of pools along its path, which are surrounded by boulders and rocks. In one of the pools further in land there are fresh water springs (tastes very nice!) and rocks that, when made wet, you can make a muddy paste from. This is known for its healing properties it would seem and people (from tourists to proper long stay hippies) go to the pool to collect the water and smear the mud all over themselves. We had to pay it a visit of course and went up there with Nadine. I think it did actually make a difference to the softness of my skin. And it was free!

We even had a swim in the lake water which was very refreshing! (Eh Nadine?)

We were a little dissapointed to find out that there is a general ‘ban’ on loud music after 10pm in most parts of Goa. So it was not the party central we expected it to be. There are of course places/ parties that pay baksheesh and what have you but it would seem that it is all a world away from what it used to be. W did however (through some new found friends) manage to sneak into a house party or two and had a few good nights and met some characters. We were quite surprised to meet quite a few people from Brighton. Our biggest surpise was Matt's hair dresser turning up and staying in the bungalow next door to us!! It turned out he was a friend of our other neighbours who also came from Birghton. It’s a small world!

It’s been almost 5 weeks since we arrived in Arambol which is 4 weeks longer than we expected to stay (oops). But that happens a lot here apparently. Our last and final excuse for extending this far was to stay for the Arambol Carnival, the biggest event of the year. It would have been criminal to miss it!

There was a lot of dressing up and theatre involved and it was great fun!
The crazy kids from Brighton

Pirates of Hindustan

The obligatory smurfs

Nadine and I having a boogie. Note the windblown look. I forgot to mention that it can get really really windy here and quite cold at night.

What it had progressed to by the evening

It was worth staying for and we finally set our date to leave for Hampi, further inland. We have loved being in Goa, the weather has been a bit cool and very windy recently (March weather apparently, which we aren’t shocked to hear after seeing unusual and out of the ordinary weather in every country we have visited) but we have met some lovely people and eaten well...